Thursday, May 17, 2018

Foundation Layers: catch-up update. Chemise #2

  In the pursuit of chemise perfection, my second attempt was a "Squares" or actually Rectangles... which I call my "Viking style" (as per Pinterest. But I can't find my references at the moment!!)

The idea with this was to have a rectangles for the upper/shoulder area, and the sleeves, and then the lower part is fuller and gather on to the upper part rectangle.

   A pair of triangles go in the bottom of the sleeves, as gussets. This renders the sleeve attachment nice and roomy enough for ease of movement, in spite of a rather small overall armscye.

That worked out great, except that I miscalculated the needed shoulder width, so I had to have add smaller rectangles on the side, then the sleeves onto that.

 Also, I wasn't sure how to finish off the collar area, so it's still just an open seam at the top, with a slit down the front to make it wide enough for a head to go through.

 I like to wear my new garments a bit to make sure they feel all right... and this one has already made it into two photoshoots.

 One was for author friend Caitie (C. R.) Hedgcock visiting from England last month... we put a hastily concocted cravat on it to cover the unfinished collar, and used it under the boned "ladies waistcoat" we custom made for her while she was here.

 Caitie's look has the sleeve ends tucked in for a more polished appearance, whereas when Abi-sis and I did a shoot for my short cape (think Tudor style!) I opted to leave the ends open.
   In retrospect it seems that for me, the sleeve rectangles might have also been cut too short for my arms... so next time I might consider making all the upper rectangles longer.
    But it still works!


Brie Donning said...

I made a chemise of sorts for a one night tudor costume, and didn't use gussets. It pulls terribly in that area. I also made a shirt with my bother for a (reformed) assassin costume, and it has wonderful gussets.

E. Kaiser Writes said...

Ah! Yes, the gussets are soo crucial!!!
I bet if you ripped out the seams in that area you could insert some into the one that doesn't have any... If you wanted to wear it more comfortably!!!
The shirt for your brother sounds like you're on the right track!!!
I'd love to see pics some time!